Ermenegildo Zegna’s catwalk show during the Milan Fashion Week which debuted late this week is all about China and the inspiration of the Great Wall. The Zegna Group is also preparing for a major event which will take place in Shanghai marking the 20 years of presence of the brand in China.

Prada presented last year a collection entirely dedicated to the Chinese market and produced a movie inspired by Shanghai’s history which was presented online worldwide as well as at the Prada Foundation Exhibition in Milan. Prada, which has seen a 51 percent surge in revenue from the Asian region in the first nine months of 2010, is planning to restage its Spring 2011 fashion show in Beijing on Jan. 22. Both Prada CEO Patrizio Bertelli and Miuccia Prada are expected to attend, and Prada plans on creating a series of new items specifically for the event.

Chanel’s first fashion show in Shanghai included European models wore yellow face make up to play Chinese characters. Lagerfeld defended this as a reference to old films. “It is an homage to Europeans trying to look Chinese,” he explained. “Like in ‘The Good Earth’, the people in the movie liked the idea that they had to look like Chinese. Or like actors in ‘Madame Butterfly’. People around the world like to dress up as different nationalities.”

Dior created last year an advertising campaign dedicated to the Chinese market, which later proved controversial due to discrimination issues. Chinese top model Tang Wei who appeared on the Chinese Vogue cover is a regular model for the shows of Dior or Ferragamo in Paris and Milan, as well as for all luxury fashion shows that take place in China.

Marc Jacobs’s latest collection for Louis Vuitton is inspired by Shanghai, yet instead of the sophistication that usually comes from fashion’s wonder boy, the clothes were bogged down with Oriental stereotypes. And so is the entire 2011 advertising campaign of Louis Vuitton, entirely Chinese inspired. Fashion critic, Suzy Menkes wrote, “By the time the first models had sashayed out in slim dresses slit to reveal the leg, you didn’t need a master’s in Mandarin to get the message that China is hot retail property for Louis Vuitton.” As luxury brands expand to different parts of the world where so many people cannot read English or French, they can recognize and remember initials better and that is why, it is obvious that brands should not create special collections, but rely on the amazing power of the logos.

Oliver does not appreciate all efforts made by luxuty brands to adjust to the China market.

But just how far can this ’’Chinese’’ spell over collections and advertising go for the top luxury brands without producing a negative impact on sales in the U.S. or Europe. Even if the actual fashion show takes place in China, obviously targeting Chinese consumers, the news with images travels at light speed through the internet worldwide. For instance, I believe Louis Vuitton’s 2011 campaign no longer has a subtle or implicit Chinese inspiration but the entire ultra bling product line is also targeting Chinese. The traditional LV monogram is replaced by huge VUITTON letters the size of the entire bag. The atmosphere depicted is one of overt show off and bling. This type of branding is considered bad taste, not only in the mature markets but in the young markets such as Eastern Europe, where the financial crisis has made people think twice before wearing an overtly branded product.

The fact that China is becoming the number one market for many international luxury brands provides a financial motivation for brands to adopt such strategies. However, I wonder how, in long term, luxury consumers in mature markets such as the U.S. or Europe will react to this ‘’Chinese influence’‘. From the Chinese consumers in all major luxury stores in Paris or Milan, the Chinese sales assistants in stores from New York to Dubai, the Chinese inspired advertising, to the Chinese models and actresses on all major catwalks, China is everywhere! and you can’t miss that on fashion blogs, web sites (lifestyle or business) oriented, it all sums up to a phrase : ‘’Luxury is Chinese’’

We don’t believe that China influence are going too far. The whole Asia is embracing all aspects of luxury universes.

“I encourage everyone to take advantage of the golden opportunity to see this spectacular collection of modern art by world-renowned designers, architects and artists. At the same time, works from several local artists will also be on display,” he added.

Symbol of elegance and exquisite French lifestyle, Louis Vuitton has maintained close links with the arts for more than a century and a half. Founded during the industrial era, Louis Vuitton has always been in step with its time, working with the best engineers, decorators and creators. Inventor of the art of travel, the man Louis Vuitton and his successors have forged a strong relationship between traditional know how and present day design.

The arrival of Marc Jacobs and artistic director in 1997 reinforced and underlined the link with artists. Exemplary collaboration with Stephen Sprouse, Takashi Murakami and Richard Prince has marked the history of the relationship between art and commerce. In Hong Kong, the Louis Vuitton and Art exhibition brings this exciting story to life, analysing the unique creative process through installations, where works of art and archive documents are brought together.

The Collection, a Choice
This exhibition of a selection of works from the Fondation Louis Vuitton pour la Création brings together a small number of significant large-scale works (paintings, photographs, video installations) by European, American and Chinese artists. These reflect an urban and energetic culture, leading to fictional landscapes, somewhere between dream and adventure.

Artists include: Jean-Michel Basquiat, Paul Chan, Cao-Fei, Yang Fudong, Gilbert & George, Dominique Gonzalez-Foerster, Andreas Gursky, Pierre Huyghe, Jeff Koons, Bertrand Lavier, Christian Marclay, Richard Prince.

Works by recognised and newly-discovered international artists working in the medium of video will be shown : Bas Jan Ader (Netherlands), Kader Attia, Cyprien Gaillard, Ange Leccia, Philippe Parreno (France), Olga Chernysheva (Russia), David Claerbout (Belgium), Trisha Donnelly, Ryan Trecartin (USA), Steve Mc Queen (Great Britain), Anri Sala (Albania), Zhou Tao (China), Rosemarie Trockel (Germany) among others.

In a developing open-minded spirit, the Foundation was eager to invite ‘emerging’ Hong Kong artists to take part in this exhibition with the help of a young art critic and curator who lives in China. / From Hong Kong Museum of Art

While all the other brands are busying to set up more shops in China, Louis Vuitton Hangzhou store (Hangzhou Tower) was just closed last Friday after a spot check of local industry and commerce authority, reported by Today Morning Express (a local newspaper).

Now in front of the closed LV Hangzhou Boutique

Before LV Hangzhou boutique was closed...

No more display in the windows, non more products in the store. LV logo was carefully covered by a blank paper. Located in the high-end shopping centre of Hangzhou, LV Hangzhou is listed in the best three retail sales in China, including Shanghai & Beijing. A such huge change is unexpected by everyone.

From the side of LV China, Ms. Zhao Xiaojing, director of communications for LV China, explained that the problem was caused by lack of a small piece of leather sample dedicated for each leather goods of LV, which is usually attached to the product as a material mark in China. “As all our leather accessories are produced in France, the mark is not required by regulations there,” Zhao said.

From the other side of AIC Hangzhou, the officer claimed that some of the boutique’s products did not measure up to standards and they seized the disqualified products. He didn’t reveal any further information, saying the details would be released after the case was concluded.

The store is closed for now that is probable because of impossibility of stock transferring in a short time, rather that is under the order of the authority.

From the side of LV’s cher clients, demands of returning and charge back were put forward by several royal clients… And the most important for clients is to keep them informed with detail.